Best Out West
Sun Herald
Sunday January 6, 2002
Cross the continent for beautiful beaches and amazing food and wine, Shan Small writes.
A FABULOUS location is what makes Abbey Beach Resort so memorable.
First, it's in the Margaret River wine and food region of Western Australia. Second, it's smack on the magnificent Geographe Bay Beach.
There is a large five-star complex, with one-, two- and three-bedroom hotel rooms, flats and studio units. It is in the historic area south of Perth, near Busselton, and offers the charms of colonial buildings, antiques and craft shops and breathtaking coastal views.
If you like sightseeing, tasting quality wine and eating good food, your problem will be too much choice.
Accommodation
The resort could seem intimidatingly large on arrival, especially if you plan an intimate retreat. The corridors are long and impersonal and room decor is of the pink/beige/bland flavour.
But the balconies off the studio units are wonderful, each a little sunspot with views of lawns, pools and the winding path to the beach. We put the balconies to the test in the early evening, too: a top spot to share a bottle brought back from the vineyard. The horseshoe-shaped complex looks over pretty landscaped lawns and ornamental pools.
Dining
I can vouch for really good breakfasts a generous smorgasbord of fruit platters, cereal, and hot dishes such as sauteed mushrooms and bacon, eggs, sausages and pastries. We ate in the Reflections Cafe, next to the 25m indoor swimming pool. It is quite appealing to be a glutton while others trim their already taut bodies.
You are unlikely to want to eat in at night. You are, after all, in a premium wining and dining area. But friends did eat in the Atrium Brasserie at the resort one night and reported the atmosphere was good and the food just what they wanted.
The nearby Atrium Bar proved a bit of a magnet, though. You have to pass it to leave the resort its cushy leather chairs and friendly service were most appealing. It's an easy spot in which to meet before going out and tempting to prolong a good evening with a late drink there.
The setting
Many rooms look on to landscaped gardens and ornamental lakes; some rooms face the beach.
The beach was wonderful this white strip seemed to go on for ever and offered spectacular sunrises and sunsets. We enjoyed morning and evening walks, drawn by a need to compensate for excessive eating and drinking. A stressed friend still talks about the power of that beach. ``I felt my problems lift away," she says.
One morning walk has remained a special memory for me because a dolphin swam right along the beach with me, close to shore. It didn't go fast just enough to keep its snout ahead.
Out and about
The difficult part is choosing how to best use your time and deciding where to eat. The renowned vineyards, which include Leeuwin, Vasse Felix and Wise are not just tasting outlets: they have beautiful gardens, good restaurants and the ambience is appealing.
There is an abundance of choice in good cafes and classy restaurants, local cheese outlets, plus the Margaret River Chocolate Factory, galleries and must-do tourist attractions, including underground caves. Most people go to Cape Leeuwin, Australia's most south-westerly point, and visit Busselton Pier, the longest in the world at 2km. It's strange to be that far out to sea, and still on land.
The most tempting souvenirs are wooden furniture and crafts made from local timber.
Activities
When you are relaxing at the resort, enjoy the beach, indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, gym, tennis and squash courts. You can also paddle your own canoe, use a wave ski or hop on a bike.
Check out Hand-ups Gallery, near the indoor pool, for a memorable souvenir. Try fishing or crabbing. I met a family with two little boys having a wonderful time fishing from the sand. You will certainly see dolphins, and sometimes whales.
Getting there
It's a three-hour drive from Perth, much of it freeway.
THE VERDICT
What the brochure said
Experience the beauty of the south-west and relax in luxurious surrounds, stroll along the endless beaches ... a resort with countless facilities and amenities for your pleasure.
What we found
You couldn't overstate the attractions of local wineries, cafes and restaurants and there is a variety of good tourist attractions and galleries, plus spectacular coastal scenery. The setting of the resort couldn't be better. Rooms are comfortable, sporting and recreational equipment is in top condition. The large indoor pool is fun.
Who should go
Couples and groups who want to enjoy the best of food and wine. Families who want to combine imbibing and dining for adults, with family time at the resort. People who enjoy tracing Australia's history.
Who shouldn't
Anyone expecting a wild time; anyone put off by large resorts, or by large groups of people staying in the same place as they are.
To book
Phone 1800 017 097, website www.abbeybeach.com.au.
Prices
Twin room (two people), peak $112, mid-week $73. Studio (two people, double spa, kitchenette, balcony) $200-$155.
Apartment (two people) $215-$140; (six people) $307-$203.
Weekly rates, twin room (two people) $714-$448. Apartment (varies according to number, maximum six people) $1,967-$1,225.
Special deals: Prices are lower in winter.
© 2002 Sun Herald
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